How to Use a Siding Nailer
Using a siding nailer comes down to matching the depth to the material: seat nails flush on wood and fiber cement, and leave them slightly loose on vinyl so panels can move. Nail into the studs, and always test on a scrap piece first.
1. Set the air and load the coil
- Set your compressor to roughly 70–120 PSI (check your gun), oil if needed.
- Drop a coil of the right siding nails into the canister, seat the first nail, and close the door.
2. Set depth for your material — on scrap
| Material | Depth setting |
|---|---|
| Wood / LP SmartSide | Flush |
| Hardie / fiber cement | Flush, low pressure (it cracks if overdriven) |
| Vinyl | Slightly loose (~1/32″ gap) so it can move |
Fire a few test nails into a scrap piece of the actual material and adjust until it's consistent before you touch the wall.
3. Nail into the studs, at the right spot
- Land nails in the framing/studs (typically 16″ on center), through the board's nailing area.
- Keep nails back from ends and edges so boards don't split or chip.
- Hold the gun square so the head seats flat.
4. Material-specific cautions
- Vinyl: never tight — overdriving causes buckling. Nail in the center of the slot. (Vinyl guide.)
- Hardie: low pressure, flush only — it's brittle. (Hardie guide.)
- Cedar: stainless nails, flush, back from edges. (Cedar guide.)
Frequently asked questions
What PSI for a siding nailer?
Around 70–120 PSI, fine-tuned with the depth dial on scrap — lower for brittle Hardie, backed off for loose vinyl.
Do you nail siding into the studs?
Yes — fasten into the framing (usually 16″ on center) through the board's nailing area, back from the edges.
Why is my siding buckling or cracking?
Overdriving. Vinyl needs to hang loose; Hardie cracks if sunk. Drop the pressure/depth to seat flush (or slightly loose for vinyl).