How to Nail Cedar Shingle Siding

Nail cedar shingle siding with stainless steel (or hot-dipped galvanized) nails, two per shingle, placed high enough to be covered by the next course — and set the gun so it seats flush without splitting the cedar. Cedar's tannins corrode ordinary nails, so the fastener is the critical choice.

The nails come first

• Stainless steel is best — it won't corrode or bleed black stains down the wall; hot-dipped galvanized is the minimum.
• Two nails per shingle, about ¾″–1″ in from each edge and roughly an inch above the butt line of the next course, so the heads stay concealed.
• Long enough to penetrate the sheathing/framing per your wall build-up (see siding nail sizes).

The gun setup

A coil siding nailer loaded with stainless nails is ideal. Cedar splits and dents if overdriven, so drop the pressure and set the depth to seat flush, then test on a scrap shingle before the wall.

Spacing and exposure

• Leave a small keyway gap (about ¼″) between shingles for expansion, and stagger the joints course to course so gaps never line up.
• Keep to the recommended weather exposure for your shingle grade so the coverage and nail concealment work out.
• Nail near — but not through — the keyways, and stay back from edges to avoid splits.

Common mistakes

• Wrong nails — bright or electro-galvanized rust and streak cedar.
• Overdriving — crushes the cedar and weakens the hold; keep heads flush.
• Nailing too low — exposed heads and split butts; nail above the next course's line.

Frequently asked questions