How to Nail Hardie Board Siding

The key to nailing Hardie board: use corrosion-resistant nails into the studs, blind-nail near the top edge where you can, and set your nailer so the head seats flush — never sunk. Overdriving is what cracks fiber cement.

1. Tools and nails

Use a pneumatic coil siding nailer for control and capacity. Load hot-dipped galvanized or stainless siding nails long enough to reach the studs (see siding nail sizes). Skip bright/electro-galvanized — fiber cement will rust them.

2. Set the gun so it seats flush

1. Dial your compressor to the low end and set the nailer depth so the head lands flush with the surface — not driven below it.
2. Test on a scrap piece of Hardie first. Adjust until the head just kisses the surface every time.
3. If a nail sinks in and crushes the board, drop the pressure/depth — a sunk nail loses holding power and starts cracks.

3. Blind-nail vs face-nail

• Blind (concealed) nailing: nail near the top edge of the plank so the next course covers the heads. Cleanest look; preferred where the exposure allows.
• Face nailing: for wider exposures or where specified, nail through the face per the manufacturer's pattern, keeping nails in from the edges to avoid chipping.

4. Placement and spacing

• Land nails into the studs (typically 16″ on center), and keep them the recommended distance from plank ends and edges to prevent breakout.
• Keep heads flush the whole way — consistency is what prevents cracks and gives a clean wall.
• Always follow James Hardie's current installation and fastener instructions for your product and wind zone.

Common mistakes

• Overdriving — the #1 cause of cracked, weak fastening.
• Nailing too close to the edge — chips and breaks the board.
• Wrong nails — bright nails rust and stain fiber cement.

Frequently asked questions